Citron and Rose 'An Inspiration,' Inquirer Critic Praises

Citing the kosher restaurant's innovative ideas, Craig LaBan recently awarded Merion's Citron and Rose two bells, a "Very Good" grade from the Philadelphia Inquirer restaurant critic.

Citron and Rose opened in Merion Station in November, a product of restauranteurs Michael Solomonov (Zahav, Federal Donuts) and Steven Cook. The glatt kosher restaurant is closed on Fridays and Saturdays, in accordance with Jewish practice, and offers a meat-based, dairy-free menu.

Many people, LaBan writes, have viewed Cook and Solmonov's task of creating a "great glatt kosher restaurant" as impossible. But, he continues:

...From the moment I finally settled onto our leather banquette behind a sky-blue window pane in the dining room, schmeared a warm rye-bread roll with onion-infused schmaltz, and then devoured an ethereally smoky slice of garlicky house salami, it was clear they'd succeeded.

Among the items LaBan praises are the $79 rib-eye for two—"an object of pure grill-lust, and among the best cuts of beef I've eaten anywhere"—along with clever cocktails, and Salad Lyonnaise "with a convincing twist" of smoked duck breast.

LaBan does cite some growing pains, including some of the restaurant's fish dishes—some of which he describes as dry, austere and boring.

But, he says, "with a little more tweaking, Citron and Rose could possibly rise to three bells by year's end"—an "Excellent" rating, on par with Le Bec Fin, Rittenhouse Tavern and Stateside.

Read Laban's full review of Citron and Rose at the Philadelphia Inquirer.

Have you been to Citron and Rose? Do you agree with LaBan's critique? Tell us in the comments.